Deep dive: Not on the label

With increasing consumer demand for healthier, less-processed alt protein products that have short lists of recognizable ingredients, is ‘clean label’ the driving force for companies wanting a share of this marketplace? Or is the term itself becoming merely a marketing tool? The answer, as Louise Davis discovers, lies somewhere in the middle

On a recent episode of the UK TV show Dragons’ Den (the show’s called Shark Tank in the USA), one of the entrepreneurs pitching for investment was repeatedly using the phrase ‘clean label’ to help explain the USP of his popsicle business. Seeing this phrase being applied to food products such as ice cream is interesting; surely, nobody is tucking into a bowl of Häagen-Dazs and thinking it’s anything other than delicious junk? Is there really such consumer demand for ‘clean’ solutions that almost every food product must be wearing a clean label.

The cynical view is that the phrase ‘clean label’ has moved so far into the mainstream that it’s already becoming regarded as mere marketing speak, a term to be thrown around to gain extra sales from certain demographics (as we observe in the bizarre application of the term ‘plant-based’ to labels for non-food items such as cleaning products!).

But that negative view does a disservice to those in the broader food sector who are working to ensure that clean labeling is both meaningful and useful as a concept and doesn’t just wind up being the new ‘natural’ in the lexicon of marketing buzz speak.

And ensuring the concept is more than a buzzword is arguably more important in the alternative proteins sector than in any other part of the food marketplace. Despite the constantly growing demand from consumers, launching an alt protein product is tough. Regardless of a product’s fantastic taste, performance, and nutritional profile, getting it into the consumer’s kitchen is the difficult part. Which is where the label (clean or otherwise) is crucial.

The first generation of alt meat burgers, nuggets, and sausages came under such fire for their use of unhealthy ingredients and processing techniques that selling what was already a tough proposition became even harder. Today, companies entering this sector need to be transparent, and prioritize short ingredient lists comprised of recognizable plant-based sources with few additives or processing techniques. They also need to ensure their products align with evolving dietary preferences and eco-conscious values.

From prototype to plate

What’s on the label is something that must be defined from the beginning of a product’s development path, rightly notes MJ Kinney, Founder of FareScience, which she set up to help formulate and commercialize alternative protein products.

When brands profit from affirming false narratives, they reinforce the very distrust of authority that leaves people vulnerable to conspiracy theories

“Food product developers must know clean label criteria upfront and before starting prototypes,” the food scientist explains. “Clean-label initiatives generally support fewer ingredients in combination with ingredients offering a kitchen-pantry level of familiarity. But this definition has bled into conversations about what is truly necessary, shaping philosophies on what functions foods ought to serve – and this inserts a never-ending, highly subjective element for all to navigate, especially the scientists behind the products.”

Detailing this degree of complexity, Kinney adds, “Clean label can inform which ingredients are used on multiple levels: the raw material; the specifications of a finished ingredient; and the suppliers selected. It can also inform classifications such as ‘free-from’ and nutrition content claims (which then requires intentional usage level calculations using FDA guidelines). Certifications provide another level of consideration, sometimes impacting only the ingredient suppliers you choose to work with, and other times, both suppliers and the manufacturer.”

For her own work, Kinney says that she has a focused conversation on what clean label means to each client – which may be specific to a brand, or a product line within that brand. “I ask questions about whether there are ingredients they absolutely do not want to work with and whether they are comfortable using gums and/or hydrocolloids,” she says. Because clean label tends to mean fewer preservatives, she also asks what the target shelf life is and whether the client is uncomfortable with any of the options required to achieve that.

Kinney brings a healthy dose of realism to the guidance she offers her clients in terms of what is possible versus what’s actually desirable. “Food innovation perhaps has more checkboxes than ever before, and as much as I love to push the envelope on what is possible, it is not worthwhile to be all things to all consumers,” she advises.

In terms of specific ingredients and techniques where innovation is currently focused, Kinney says there has been ongoing interest in replacing certain hydrocolloids with clean-label alternatives and processes, “But I’ve yet to experience a company with serious intention and an appropriate budget to invest in R&D,” she adds. “It still remains a hope (albeit, an optimistic one) that ingredients such as methylcellulose will be a single-ingredient swap using a fiber or starch derivative. In cases where clean label is a dual approach – to both go vegan/plant-based and have simple ingredients – I’ve observed overly optimistic approaches on egg replacement, in particular.”

In scenarios where a party is looking to replace a certain ingredient, Kinney says it is generally the case that they previously worked with a different product development provider and are trying to pick up where that provider left off. “I believe there’s this notion – especially with formulations already on the market or significantly underway – that the fix is just a ‘tweak’ or subtle adjustment where you could dial up the texture with just a little higher usage level here, and an ingredient substitution there.

“Although I absolutely empathize and seriously consider the client’s situation (maybe they just spent US$10,000-US$20,000 and have nothing to show for it), more often than not, the solution has been to start over by returning to the concept stage. When it comes to a fundamental change such as texture, I generally advocate for a more holistic approach that is less about replacement in terms of ingredient for ingredient, and instead about embracing a new formulation, not a reformulation.”

Kinney also ensures her clients are aware of the potential downsides involved in responding to industry trends, explaining that logical fallacies around food often go unaddressed, fueling misinformation at the expense of public health. “When brands profit from affirming false narratives, they reinforce the very distrust of authority that leaves people vulnerable to conspiracy theories. In other words, chasing trends can promote delusion over science. And companies that encourage such thinking for sales can inadvertently aid the delegitimization of credible institutions. This cycle exacerbates the susceptibility to misinformation that divides society.

“At first glance, connecting clean label to politics may seem far-fetched,” continues Kinney. “However, food choices in the USA increasingly have partisan ties – the conservative-led bans on cell-cultivated meat being a recent example. Moreover, influencers in nutrition and wellness spaces can serve as gateways to far-right conspiracy, given the shared distrust of scientific authorities. Although not universal, the appreciation of simple, ‘clean’ ingredients can often stem from lacking healthcare access in the pursuit to feel and perform at one’s best. When quality care is cost-prohibitive, self-guided diets offer control in a far more immediate and affordable way.

“I think the biggest, scariest downside of clean label is that – when left unquestioned, unchecked, and propagated – it can affirm anti-establishment leanings, enable misinformation, and become a way to create further division among people. I don’t believe it’s effective to expect companies to uphold public health over profits, but I absolutely think it’s feasible and necessary for scientists to be a part of the inception of any product innovation to an extent that has traditionally only been afforded to marketing professionals and C-suite. I would like to see more food scientists, dietitians, and nutritionists at the table and actively participating in the greenlighting of what products actually see the light of day.”

Clean-up operation

Flavio Meola is one such food expert involved in exactly this sort of work. As Global Applied R&D Manager Savory at Lallemand Bio-Ingredients, Meola says there has been a clear shift toward using clean-label ingredients, especially in the context of plant-based products. “The objective of the plant-based industry appears to be twofold: first, to streamline the ingredients list; and second, to minimize the reliance on additives,” he observes.

Meola cites North America as an example of a region that’s seen a notable shift as consumers scrutinize product labels and ingredient lists more closely. “This is particularly relevant in the meat substitute category, where an overly processed image can deter adoption,” he says. “According to Mintel analysts, brands focusing on clean and natural ingredient labels stand to attract consumers who prioritize health and clean eating. For instance, 25% of US adults who purchase protein have expressed interest in buying more meat substitutes if they were less processed.”

But how easy is it for food and ingredient companies to respond to such data? “The functionality of certain processed foods or food additives limits the possibility to replace those quickly,” Meola suggests. “While looking for alternatives, the industry’s capability to effectively communicate the advantages of processing and ingredients has the potential to instil confidence in consumers. Clean labeling, encompassing various positively perceived attributes aiding consumers in their dietary decisions, can be enhanced by emphasizing sustainability, upcycling ingredients, and health benefits (such as the Nutri-score in the EU or the UK traffic light system),” believes Meola. “By spotlighting diverse values that align with consumers’ preferences, this approach may better position plant-based launches and maintain consumer interest.”

And behind the scenes, Meola and his team are busy helping with the hunt for replacement ingredients. “Within the Lallemand Bio-Ingredients Business Unit – particularly in the Savory segment – we specialize in premium yeast products derived from Saccharomyces cerevisiae and Torula yeast, including whole-cell nutritional yeast, yeast extracts, and yeast derivatives,” he explains. “We possess a distinct advantage in the food industry, as yeast has been utilized for millennia in the making of bread, beer, and wine, making it widely recognized and valued by consumers for its functionality worldwide.

“In recent years, we have expanded our offerings to include more sophisticated ingredients, always mindful of yeast’s central role. We prioritize developing ingredients that can be labeled as natural flavorings in accordance with local regulations, ensuring alignment with the clean-labeling trend.”

We prioritize developing ingredients that can be labeled as natural flavorings in accordance with local regulations, ensuring alignment with the clean-labeling trend

Meola says Lallemend is convinced that specific attributes inherent to inactive yeast can be further developed to provide not only flavor contributions, but also emulsifying or subtly texturizing properties. “One of the drivers for our applied research is to find applications where the inner characteristics of inactive yeast and yeast fraction are not yet tapped, with the target of playing an active role in the development of clean label solutions for our customers.”

Citing some examples of recent work in this sphere, Meola notes that yeast presents a naturally sustainable and reliable source of high-quality protein, abundant in essential amino acids and devoid of antinutritional factors. “Presently, our Engevita HiPRO Beyond – with its neutral flavor – enhances the nutritional composition of plant-based protein,” he says. “Also, a portion of our portfolio is dedicated to characterizing the taste of plant-based products; our natural, yeast-based products mitigate the inherent, undesirable flavor traits often found in certain plant-based proteins. This is exemplified by our flavor down-modulators, Toravita 300, 301, and 600, which utilize masking and umami properties of torula yeast.

“Simultaneously, we collaborate to develop desired flavor profiles in plant-based meals. The recent introduction of Savor-Lyfe CA and CC, as natural, dairy- and animal-free alternatives, has generated considerable excitement by offering dairy-like flavor profiles.”

The Fox and the fungi

Flavor profiles are of keen interest to Michael Fox, CEO & Co-Founder of Fable Food Co, who describes his job as “making delicious meaty food from mushrooms”. Fox and his young family live on a 41-acre property on the Sunshine Coast in Queensland, Australia, and he explains that they “live closer to how my grandparents live – we grow a lot of our own food, bake sourdough, brew kombucha, and eat a whole-food based diet”.

Fox is vegan and he recalls wanting to develop products to help other people reduce their meat consumption. “But I wanted to do it in a way that aligned with my diet – minimal processing, whole-food based and clean label,” he says.

And taste was paramount, too. “Some chefs put me onto the idea of doing this with mushrooms. As part of the fungi kingdom, mushrooms are more closely related to animals and humans than they are to plants. They contain many of the same umami flavor compounds as meat and they’re incredibly healthy. Exploring mushrooms led me to meet my co-founders, Jim Fuller (who spent 10 years as a fine-dining chef) and Chris McLoghlin.”

The founders decided to use only natural ingredients and minimize the processing in their products. “I eat that way personally and Michael Pollan’s book, In Defense of Food, was pivotal in shaping my thinking in this space,” Fox reveals. “He makes a strong case for only eating foods made from ingredients your grandmother would recognize. That’s what we aim to do.

“The past 50 years have seen a massive change in our food system, from how we grow and produce food with big, large-scale farms and industrial animal agriculture, through to the development and production of heavily processed foods designed to be addictive in taste and cheap to produce. There are some elements of this system that have been good – we are able to feed more people – however, the nutrient level in our food has dropped, we have an obesity epidemic in Western countries, and we’re hitting the point now where average lifespan is starting to go backward in countries such as the USA. Given the prevalence of obesity, heart disease and diet-related cancers such as bowel cancer, our diet is very likely to blame.”

Fox believes that consumers are becoming more aware of this and he’s noticing a strong shift toward clean-label products, particularly in categories such as meat alternatives. “The biggest driver for meat eaters wanting to reduce meat consumption is health,” he states. “The past few years have seen lots of PR and new, alternative proteins coming to market. That’s driven strong interest from consumers and a massive wave of product trial. As consumers have become more aware of the category, they’re looking at ingredient decks – which generally aren’t clean label – and they’ve questioned the health benefits of these products. The meat industry has also done a very good job of pushing the narrative that these products aren’t healthy. So, now there’s a significant segment of consumers looking for clean-label alternative proteins. We’ve seen similar shifts in other categories, too.”

It sounds like Fable has deftly responded to this trend, then? “Jim, Chris and I have extensive backgrounds in mushrooms, science and food, so we’ve been able to develop mushroom products that are incredibly delicious, reasonably priced, clean label, and healthy for consumers. We’ve worked hard and developed unique ways of cooking mushrooms to amplify their meaty, umami flavors, de-emphasize their sulfuric, mushroomy flavors and have the texture closely match different cuts of meat.”

So, how has the concept of clean labeling informed Fable’s work? “Taste and price are the most important factors in food,” Fox emphasizes firstly. “If something doesn’t taste great and isn’t reasonably priced, it’s either going to fail or be very niche at best, regardless of whether it’s clean label. But we have a blanket rule that everything we do is clean label. We know that constrains us and makes it more technically challenging, but we find that constraint motivating, it helps keep us focused. Our core ingredient, mushrooms, are a great place to start as they are so healthy and naturally contain glutamates and many of the other compounds that draw people to meat.”

Fox acknowledges that this isn’t an easy path to tread. “It’s more difficult to create great-tasting, well-priced, clean-label alternative protein products. You can’t take short cuts with binders such as methylcellulose, or artificial colors and flavors. Most preservatives are also out, which results in a shorter shelf life – and that also comes at a cost. To be clean label requires more R&D, higher natural ingredient costs, and shorter shelf life. For our values and positioning, that’s a cost we take on and we target the consumer who wants delicious-tasting, well-priced food and values it being clean label. Other companies need to weigh up the cost/benefit to decide on their approach.”

Committed to clean

When considering his own approach, for Marc Coloma, CEO & Co-Founder of Spanish plant-based meat firm, Heura Foods, clean labeling was a fundamental principle guiding his work. “It leads the way of working in product and tech development,” he comments. “We prioritize using high-quality and nutritious ingredients in our products, avoiding unnecessary ones. Our objective is to avoid empty calories and to deliver products for every day; high in protein, low in fat, and a source of fiber.”

Coloma says that Heura’s focus on clean-label products aligns with increasing consumer demand for healthier, more sustainable options. “Consumers seek transparency in labeling, driven by concerns for health, sustainability, and access to information. This trend reflects a broader shift in consumer preferences toward informed, conscious choices in food purchases.” But, Coloma adds, “We need to shift the pressure off consumers and bring it to the industry. We need to be the ones assuring the products we deliver are respecting the environment and people’s health – and not relying on animals to do so.

Balancing taste, performance, and nutrition while adhering to clean-labeling standards requires careful formulation
and rigorous testing

“That’s why we always talk about not being alternatives but putting the focus on being successors from animal counterparts. We need products that tick the three boxes: sustainable, nutritious, and delicious.”

Part of the key to achieving the above goals is being addressed via Heura’s ‘Good Rebel Tech’, a solution that enables it to produce plant-based meat alternatives without a long list of additives. “Our Good Rebel Tech platform and the patent we filed in April 2023 exemplifies our dedication to clean labeling,” Coloma explains. “This innovative technology utilizes a relatively simple thermomechanical technique to create plant-based meat alternatives without relying on numerous additives. It’s scalable and has enabled us to achieve impressive results in terms of taste, texture, and nutritional profile.”

Heura is already selling products made using Good Rebel Tech and Coloma reports a great response. “Feedback from consumers and industry partners has been overwhelmingly positive. The technology was applied in the first York-style slices without additives on the market, and in just three months that became the top deli product in Spain.”

Mindful of making this success appear easier than it sounds, Coloma does concede that the clean-label trend is not without its hurdles – a key one being its impact on price parity. “Clean ingredients and sustainable practices can sometimes entail higher production costs. However, we prefer to look at this from a solution-based point of view and we are working to grow the demand for clean-label products, so economies of scale and technological advancements may help mitigate these cost disparities.”

Coloma also acknowledges that producing products that are clean label and hit all other consumer expectations is tough. “Balancing taste, performance, and nutrition while adhering to clean-labeling standards requires careful formulation and rigorous testing. But our team has overcome these through innovation and perseverance. And the best part? We keep developing new products while constantly improving the current ones. The sky’s the limit!”

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